Free Radicals on the Loose

Antioxidants are substances that protect cells from environmental damage caused by oxidation. This is a very basic definition, and may not get the point across to patients, so you’ll need to explain it in terms they can understand. Using real life examples can help bridge the gap. Try something like this: “Have you ever cut an apple or an avocado and within 5-10 minutes it is turning brown? Why don’t pre-sliced versions at the store turn brown?  They aren’t special magical apples and avocados; they have been treated with antioxidants. Antioxidants are powerful compounds break the chain reaction that causes the release of free radicals that disrupt cell function and cause visible signs of aging. Oxidation is a normal function of cells, but when there are more free radicals than the body can process it causes oxidative stress and eventually oxidative damage. Are you thinking: ‘oxidation’, ‘free radicals’, English, please? I like to help others understand things completely, so let me explain. Oxygen atoms have paired electrons (like Siamese twins), and when those electrons are exposed to environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution, the electron pair is broken apart and there is a rogue electron or free radical on the loose. When there are enough free radicals present, they break down cellular functions and the health of the cell is compromised. In order to combat this process, Antioxidants or substances that absorb the rogue electrons, are applied, or consumed. Let’s go back to the apple and avocado. If you squeeze lemon on the cut fruit it won’t turn brown because lemon is filled with Ascorbic acid or Vitamin C which is an excellent antioxidant. The ascorbic acid gobbles up the free radicals before they cause enough damage to turn the apple or avocado brown.”

Understanding Antioxidants: Sources and Effects

Antioxidants for the skin come in many forms including food, drinks, supplements, serums, and creams. As a medical aestheticians, we’re often asked why a person might need to use a topical antioxidant when they are already taking a supplement or eating an antioxidant rich diet. It is our job to teach patients that when you ingest a supplemental nutrient such as Vitamin C, it is utilized by your internal systems to aid in reducing oxidative stress. While trace amounts of the vitamin will be used in the skin, most of it will be distributed to areas of need within the body. Skin is an organ that you have direct access to. You can feed it directly. It has the ability to absorb and metabolize nutrients without losing any to other organs. Take advantage of this gift! Unlike your food and drink habits, this is a diet that is easy to control. We have all studied enough nutrition in our lives to know that your body requires foods containing specific nutrients to run efficiently…the same is true for your skin. Healthy skin needs cellular turn over for correction of past damage, antioxidants to protect cells and help prevent future damage, hydration to lubricate cells so they can function properly, and SPF to protect against skin’s greatest foe…UV damage. These are the basics, and certainly there is more to it, but from a provider’s standpoint this is a complete skincare regimen. Furthermore, sunscreen of any brand or SPF level only protects from about 80% of UV damage. Antioxidants, help fill in that last 20% gap. They are, in my opinion, an integral part of your patient’s daily routine.

Do All Antioxidants Target Free Radicals?

Not all antioxidants are created equally. Some are better than others at absorbing those free radicals. There are several different tests for oxygen radical absorbency that help determine how effective the antioxidant is in different circumstances. In the Med-Surg Master Program and in the Med-Surg Medical Skin Care Program, we teach aestheticians how to identify and utilize key ingredients to develop custom protocols. Knowing how antioxidants are ranked helps medical aestheticians to recognize which level of antioxidant support each of his or her patients need to add into their regimen.

Most often in skincare the ORAC (oxygen radical absorbent capacity) method is used. I should also mention that many antioxidants are notoriously unstable in heat and sunlight, so they need to be packaged and delivered in a way that won’t compromise their chemical integrity. Commonly used antioxidants in skincare are often packaged in dark colored glass or airless pump containers to help preserve their functionality. For this reason alone, one should never bargain shop for Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid), Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin E (tocopherol), VitaminB3 (Niacinamide), or any other antioxidant. This is where your patients should invest in their skin. If they are on a limited budget for skin care, I would coach them to add to their regimen slowly. Buy one product at a time and start with the game changing serums and antioxidants. You can skimp on cleanser and moisturizer until you are able to add those less potent products.

Antioxidants: Treatments and How to Identify When to Use Them

Is your patient’s face falling and it can’t get up? Do they have sunspots that seem to appear overnight? Are their fine lines starting to become lines that resemble a road atlas? Incorporating good antioxidants will come to the rescue! One of my favorite antioxidant products is Skin Better Science Alto Defense which contains 19 different supercharged antioxidant ingredients. This company did extensive clinical studies that show visible improvement in as little as 2 weeks after start of use, which is about 6 weeks sooner than its competitors. My runner up is Jan Marini C-Esta Serum. It is rich in Vitamin C and DMEA or dimethylaminoethanol which firms skin and reduces inflammation and, as a side note, smells so good. If I could afford it, I would take a bath in C-Esta Serum. Many of my patients love Skin Medica TNS Essential Serum. This product is a powerful dual formula containing peptides for tightening, antioxidants, and human fibroblast growth factors to support cellular division. I love the effects of this product but can’t tolerate the smell of it as a matter of personal preference. Expect to pay $100 or more for a cosmeceutical-grade antioxidant. Good science comes at a price, but it is absolutely worth every penny.

Antioxidants should be applied as your first step after cleansing. You should try to store your antioxidant in a cool dry, and preferably dark, place to help keep it from spoiling. With enough oxygen exposure, even an antioxidant can oxidize and go bad. Give your patient’s skin the protection and support it needs with the introduction of a super-powered, modern-day youth serum, antioxidants.

Med-Surg Aesthetics and Laser Academy: Free Radical Skin Treatment Education

Med-Surg Aesthics and Laser Academy is the leading training of certified Aesthicians in Arizona. We offer three advanced programs to students looking to advance their Aesthician career, increase their salary, and offer more treatments. Click here to learn more about our Laser Certification programs in Phoenix or contact us directly to learn more.